Pilgrim Way

Being a tourist on Monday was fun, but my main role is as pilgrim along the Camino. Waking early Tuesday brought a bit of trepidation at returning to the way. What if I lost my "momentum", what if the rest proved to be the "jenga" in what my body has endured? My hotel lies along the way out of Leon and I'd been hearing pilgrims pass by. After loading up on cola and chocolate (not the best of breakfasts!) I joined them. Meeting in the square, I saw one pilgrim asking two very drunk locals which way to go. They were each pointing in opposite directions and trying to explain in English how to go. The poor pilgrim was looking very confused, so I said "Follow Me". The spaniards came along for a bit too until they saw where the yellow arrows marked the way and left us to continue their carousing. The man was from Slovenia, and we talked about the beauty of his county. I told him I wanted to paddle board the rivers because of pictures I'd seen. We continued a ways together until a cafe called him for breakfast. Having mine still rumbling in my stomach I kept going. León was a nice on the exit as the entrance. 

Much of the Camino until La Virgen del Camino is through industrial area and not at all nice. But after there is the option to follow a path that is mostly through farmland. Although these alternate routes tend to be a little longer, they are worth being away from the highways. 

I walked a few kilometers with Lucia, a Canadian/Brazilian. She has three kids in their 20's and wanted to find things she could do on her own that she could be proud of. She'd been walking with a mid-size group for most of the way, but wanted to break away and do some by herself, to be more independent, and to follow her own internal schedule. In Vilar de Mazarife, we parted ways and I walked the 13k to Hospital de Órbigo with few pilgrims in sight. This is supposed to be the last stretch of long uninhabited area and the last day of 100 degree temperatures. 

Reaching Puente de Órbigo in the heat of the day and the end of 34k, it was hard to appreciate its history. 

The bridge is the longest and best preserved medival bridge in Spain from the13th century. It's called Paso Honroso for a famous jousting tournament held in 1434 where a noble knight scorned by a lady threw down the gauntlet to any knight as he defended the bridge. Knights from all over took up the challenge and he defended it for one month until the required 300 lances had been broken. He then continued on to Santiago to give thanks. (A purported inspiration for Don Quixote). 

It was a nice stay in Hospital de Órbigo, sat with Kurt and Gisela from Norway, who I've met a few times along the path. We were in the German/Hungarian run Alburgue together with many other familiar faces and some new ones arriving from León. We had dinner at the Los Angeles Bar and enjoyed many laughs. Kurt showed his talent as a singer and sang for a German film maker using the line, "I'm going to Santiago" from the song about San Franscico.  

Leaving early this morning to a few clouds, I watched the sunrise, and enjoyed a very peaceful walk. 

The path to Astorga is serene and beautifully forested for most of the 16k. It is very hilly and you come down a hill to see Astorga in the distance, but then find it sitting upon a hill of its own. 

I found I had no patience for another "big" city, but took in the important sites along the way. The most interesting was the archeological site of a Roman home and the clock in Plaza Mayor. 

They had thermal heating under their floors!!

I had the opportunity to watch the couple, dressed in traditional Marahato costume, strike the bell at the 11th hour. 

The Cathederal was not as impressive as Burgos or León, but worthy of a photo. 

Leaving Astorga took me through land that felt very familiar. The hills, the shrubs all reminding me of hikes back home. The clouds were getting darker and the air was so wonderfully cool. 

In Santa Catalina, I've found my nights resting place. Tomorrow a climb, nearly 5,000 feet. Lots of rest and fuel needed. I hope the food is good!