My hostess, Elly, invited me to attend the Polbo fest and try the local dish, pulpo a la galega. She asked if I'd ever tried octopus and all I could think of was the very untasty cuttlefish in Venice, Italy. When we arrived at the local celebration hall, complete with tractor, there were tables set up, a few older townspeople waiting, and two huge copper pots bubbling away. I have to admit, I was not really eager to try this... But encouraged by more and more locals I dove in. Yum!!
It has olive oil, sea salt and Spanish paprika (similar to Tahin) sprinkled on it after being cut into bite size pieces. Brought out on plates along with boiled potatoes served the same, you just dig in with the community. It was delicious!
Everyone was friendly and welcoming. They invited me to return in February for their next celebration, and said I could drive the tractor!!
The walk into the region today was filled with hills and valleys. Going up 1300 meters to O'Cebreiro was strenuous. But the beauty of this coastal range was well worth the effort.
Reaching O'Cebreiro, the church of Santa Maria Real welcomes you. It is the oldest surviving structure on the Camino, from the 9th century.
A very beautiful countryside that welcomes the pilgrims heading to its capital, Santiago de Compostella.
From here, the markers showing the Way have begun its countdown. Although said to be inaccurate due to changing routes, it is an indication we're getting closer. At Finnisterre, it will be zero...
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