Monja's Adventures: Journey to the Earth's End

I've known that reaching Santiago de Compostella would not be the end of my camino walking since I first began planning this journey. I had purchased the Camino Finesterre guide along with Camino Francés nearly 3 years ago. But as I walked and made steps along the way, I had begun to worry that it would not come to be. I tried to convince myself that a bus ride would suffice if time ran out. And I even began planning a NEW camino from Porto, Portugal that would give me the Finesterre route option.

None of these alternatives brought me peace. I simply had to continue walking until my body and soul reached the Atlantic Ocean.

After reaching Santiago on July 10, I had plenty of time to complete Camino Finesterre, and even Muxia before returning to Santiago again. And I had connected with Kelly, from Oregon, who also shared the desire to reach the "End" by way of walking. Due to time constraints and other reasons, many people take the two hour bus ride into Finesterre from Santiago. But that would not be our Way.

On July 11, Kelly and I set off towards the cathederal to see any new familiar faces amongst the arriving pilgrims. I talked with the two Texans whom I'd last seen in Burgos, but no one else from my journey was there then.

Eager to be back on the way, we asked for directions at the Parador and quickly reacquainted ourselves with finding the yellow arrows. It was a walk through neighborhoods and a park before reaching a very lush forest trail.

It was the perfect beginning to a 22k walk. We stopped along the route to take pictures and refresh with food and drink and made good time into Negreira.

We walked through a sleepy little carnival to San Jose alburgue and although we were told the festivities could get loud, decided to stay. Wow!! That night was loud! Music and an announcer boomed through the walls until 2am. And our next stage was to be our hardest and longest.

Waking at 6 and hitting the road without coffee was already making it tough, but beautiful lighting on the old city walls made it worthwhile.

It was a mix of road and path and a total of 12k before we finally reached an open cafe.

The 21k were spent on going up and down hill after hill. Lots of pasture and small villages. A beautiful lake far off in the distance spurred us on, hoping to reach it. But the Way had another direction. We finally reached Olveiroa in mid afternoon and found beds. Chores finished, we met for a fabulous and filling Pilgrim's meal at As Pìas.

We even tried a couple of walks to find the healing waters of Santa Lucia, but always ended up where we began. And another long day of walking meant early to bed.

The next day stated at 6:30 with a fabulous breakfast at As Pìas and a beautiful path.

Making good time we continued on to the high moors, a 12.3k stretch of isolated natural pathway.

We found ourselves in the path of cattle, our own mini Spanish Bull Run.

Each time we created a hill, we anticipated seeing the ocean. And after many hills, we finally did. With whoops of joy and renewed energy, we were getting closer!

Walking through Cee and Corcubión, we refueled and continued on a mixture of road and path, sometimes with the water in view. More hills and more crossings and after a sharp bend, a beautiful stretch of white sandy beach. I had to walk it!!

Finally the Atlantic. But we were not done... Back on the road and more turns, about 3 kilometers from Finesterre, we came to another white sandy beach. This time, I couldn't wait. I convinced Kelly that we needed to stop. It looked completely isolated, no one in sight. When we did reach the beach, there was a small group of people praying, but off in a little cove and uninterested in us. Kicking off our shoes and stripping down (to underwear!!) we jumped in. I decided my boots were getting their burial at sea right now and stuffed a rock in each.

Pure bliss...

Back on the road we walked a slate pathway that reminded me more of Lake Tahoe than ocean.

All along the bay we walked until finally reaching Finesterre. We collected our Fisterana, the certificate commemorating our arrival by foot.

I enjoyed a celebratory lunch of scallops and beer and then headed to my hotel to rest.

Ran into many familiar faces during my walk around town and all were heading for the lighthouse for sunset later. But first a celebration dinner, because I am always hungry!!

The walk to Cabo Finisterre and the lighthouse is an additional 3.5k out from town. But walking with friends made the journey easy and quick.