But I was meant to ride this bus. I met a fellow pilgrim, Ingrid, who is walking this Camino AGAIN at 57. She walked the France Route in March and is returning so that she can cross over the Pyrenese Mountain Pass this time. At that time it was closed due to snow. And this is how the Camino provides. A guide, an inspiration and a companion all in one.
A good thing we were as two when our bus driver let us out at 4:45 am in industrial Bayonne, in the pouring rain! Taking cover in an auto sellers patio, we covered packs and ourselves and began to walk. It took us both to find the train station down the dark roads and across the river. Not something I would have liked doing alone!!
And again she saved me when my credit card would not process getting our tickets to SJPdP. Another lovely pilgrim, AnnMarie, helped us in French, navigating the many screens until finally we both had our boarding passes. Somewhere in Brierly's guide he should mention you're in France for a while!
After a breakfast of coffee and leftover cookies we took another bus (Crazy, I know!) towards the gateway of the camino. Both of us were relieved to be on our way and slept for most of the hour and half short ride. The bits and pieces I saw through the rain were hilly terrain and mud laden rivers. Beautifully green.
Arriving in SJPdP we walked quickly down the street, leaving many other pilgrims still looking to see where they were. Probably looking as lost as they, I merely followed Ingrid, as she already knew the way. We took pictures at the wall and found the Pilgrim's Office. There we gave our statistical information: Who? Where? Why? And get our stamp.
Ingrid was told the Napolean route over the Pyrenese would not be a good idea in bad weather and offered her the other route. She was in distress, not again. That was the reason for returning now. I told her I had not been given that advice and together we would try the route over the mountains. The path is well marked, but fog can sometimes make it difficult to see. With the two of us I believe it is very possible to complete this stage.
Feeling much better, we went into a nearby cafe. I was so hungry, I hadn't had a meal since Alex and Sarah fed me the delicious noodles Monday evening. So at 9:45 in the morning I ordered the three pork chop dinner with French fries, and coffee. Ingrid decided that was a good idea and ordered the hamburger. We ate and shared some personal information and then parted ways to shop and get to our rooms.
I bought a larger poncho, with the forecast for rain the next two days, the existing one will not suffice. Feeling full from a very early dinner, I also bought some simple snacks for later tonight and breakfast.
Not being able to get into my room until 3 I had lots of time to wander the village. I walked the Citadel Path which overlooks the village and also the Pyrenese Mtns. The citadel itself was an important stronghold during the French and Spanish Wars.
I visited the Notre Dame du Bout du Pont and lit a candle for my Oma. Then the Porte Notre Dame where I will, along with many pilgrims before and after, walk under towards the Route de Napolean in the morning.
Finally time to walk up the hill and find my lodging. It is outside the village and a bit remote. Ten minutes from the Pilgrim's Office where I will meet Ingrid in the morning. But it's distance suits me today. I need the luxury of a hot shower, a warm bed and a long sleep.
Sorry, to read about your roundtrip to Aachen:-( But we are glad to know you arrived safely and had nice company on the long trip south! Hope the weather keeps getting better and all is well while you take on the first kilometers of your long journey!!!
ReplyDeletePS: Glad to read that Alex´ cooking skills made it into your blog;-)