The Long Walk

The hostel in Roncevalles was very modern and well run, but most of the pilgrims there were either very young or older by 10 years. It's amazing how many come as pairs or groups. I left here shortly after 7 with a vending machine coffee and yogurt to sustain me. Supposedly breakfast in 3k in the larger village of Burguete, but arriving in just 15 minutes, I decided to buy a couple apples and continue on. The path from Burguete was beautiful, dense forest all around you, although the road runs fairly near to the left. In Espinal, the path becomes cobbled in many places, alternating often with dirt (or mud) but still within the forest. Along this path I met a man from Luxembourg who has been walking for 75 days, 1800 kilometers so far. We walked a few kilometers together and he soon headed past. I also saw Ingrid, with whom I walked a few kilometers, she was planning to stop in Zubiri and I was hoping to go further. About 11:30 am I reached Zubiri and had lunch, my first omelet bocadillo. Feeling confident about moving on, I had a Magnum (ice cream) to boost my energy. Passing Zubiri is a stark contrast to the forest I just came through. Very industrial with graffitied walls. But soon you came to a beautiful waterfall with a sign: "You are leaving the Industrial Zone. Buen Camino". 

Much of way from here is again forested and the Arga river flows beside you. There are many bridges as you cross the river multiple times. 

Further past Zurian, you walk a few kilometers beside the highway. In Parque I was feeling exhausted and became confused by path directions. One way led into a valley with mountains on either side and the other more central. I decided central would be more advantages to me at that time and was happy I did. It proved to be the right way and I arrived in Arre de Trinidad at 3:50. 40 kilometers in 8 hours, 45 minutes. I was worried I wouldn't get a room, but there were only three before me. Two older Dutch women and Mr Luxembourg!! The pastor was such an animated man, while completing my paperwork and seeing my name, he sang it, bowed and blessed me exuberantly!  It was such a welcoming, and so needed after the long walk. He took me through the Basillica, the smallest, and showed me the beautiful altar. I believe, it is the altar that makes it a Basillica. We were quite the duo trying to converse! The pilgrim hostel is from the 12th century, but totally adequate. He showed me where to wash and gave us a recommendation for dinner. After showering and laundry I went in search of the restaurant. But I was so tired and really had no sense of direction left that I found myself somewhere completely wrong. Buying a pudding and some cereal bars, I walked back to the alburgue and laid down. I slept for about an hour and when I awoke Mr L was heading out to dinner. I decided to tag along, hoping we'd find the place. It was a convoluted route, but after asking several residents, we finally found it and enjoyed a good pilgrims meal. Both of us ordered the lomo, thinking it lamb, and found that it was pork. We both looked a bit disappointed, I said, "I've had this same meal three days in a row". He said, "Me too!" and we laughed. It was good to share a meal and a laugh. 

Some more pictures of the long walk: