First Stage to Roncevalles

Sitting at the bar enjoying cheesecake and sangria I can almost forget how difficult the first 7 kilometers were today. 

Leaving SJPdP at 6:40 in light rain and a beautiful sunrise, it seemed a great beginning. 

 

But then the rain came, torrential! And the wind with it, brutal. I walked hunched over trying to keep the poncho from flying and at least some part of my body dry. It was steep uphill and hard. At Orrison, 5 k in, I was ready to turn back! 

Soaked to the bone, cold and unsure of this daunting climb, I decided to go into the refuge to regroup. I met some young Alaskans, who were completely unprepared for this weather, but cheerful and boisterous in spite of it. After a coffee and encouragement, I ventured back out into the weather. After two kilometers more of this wicked weather, it simply stopped. Feeling more confidant, I picked up my stride and found myself in beautiful country!

So worth it. And now I'm in Spain! The road continues up another 500 meters in beech forest, you feel very secluded and far from civilization. A sense of peace is now upon you. 

And then you're there. Roncevalles. A total of 22.5 kilometers today, 1500 meter gain. 

This is the church/hospital that originally welcomed pilgrims. It is also point zero on the Camino for Spainards. 

After getting my lodging, I went in search of a cafe. Ordering the pilgrims meal I inhaled noodles and pork steak and French fries and salad and bread. It was incredibly delicious. I think my food will always taste this good after working so hard for it! I then went to the albergue to shower and do my laundry. The typical pilgrim chores. Not feeling tired, I went in search of people I'd seen on the way. I met Ingrid and she was so happy to have completed the Napolean Route. We will not walk together, our strides are  different and she has more leisure to stop at shorter distances. But it was a blessing to have her these first days. 

I decided to take the tour of the church/monastery, to visit the cemetery on grounds that purportedly house the rear guard of Charlemagne's army. 

There is much history here including the King of Navarro, Sancho the Strong, burial crypt and his broken chains. 

I visited the main church, Our Lady of Roncevalles, which is designed to be a mini Notre Dame. 

Beautiful culture. I like Spain! 

And now it has brought me here to La Posada bar, one of the oldest buildings in the village. Salud! It's getting crowded.