Saturday, June 13, 2015

Pamplona

The benefit of doing forty kilometers yesterday, was today I was about 6 kilometers from Pamplona. I took the opportunity to take my time and slept in til 7. Walking at 8, I was in the city at 9. In time for cafe cortado and croissant at a quaint cafe on San Saturino Plaza. I went into the Cathedrral of Santa Maria la Real and listened to the organ player for a while, finding peace in St. Gregory's Chapel. I dislike the way the church as installed these automatic candle lights instead of lighting ones own candle. It just doesn't feel right to throw in a euro and watch an electric flame ignite.  
I ventured to the Museo de Navarra and paid 2 euros to see a vast collection of artifacts and art pieces. They have items over 150,000 years old, but I enjoyed the piece of St. Michael from the 18th century best. 
And the church next door was from the 13th century. 
Leaving Pamplona I came across several arches that were former entrances to the walled city but now moved to various locations. 
This one was near the roses planted for Camino  pilgrims. 
At the University of Navarra, I went in search of the porter for accreditation of my pilgrims passport. A beautiful campus, the Way, meanders past it and then up a hill to Cizur Menor, with its church dedicated to St. Miguel, Arcángel.   From here there is a range of hills with vast fields. 
At the top of these hills, Alto del Perdón - the Hills of Forgiveness,  (800 meters) is the medieval pilgrim memorial.  
Many pilgrims rest here before the long trek downhill and there is a small "food truck" to provide all sorts of refreshments including wine and beer. 
The way down is very rocky and mostly slow going. Finally Urtega is in sight, and just in time, the clouds have gathered and are becoming very dark above. It's just before 4 pm and I've procured my bed and dinner for the night here. Twenty two euros for everything you need: shelter, shower, laundry, food and Internet! The sky's have opened and it's pouring rain, thunder and lightening are bringing in many pilgrims. Most stay just long enough to regroup before heading out, some book their rooms. Looking forward to meeting new people and a BIG meal soon. I'm hungry!!


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