The path from Villafranca to St. Juan de Ortega was peaceful forest trails. The church in San Juan was open and I was able to light a candle after a cafe and breakfast.
Forest path continues through to Atapuerca, where there are prehistoric caves dating back over 900,000 years. The route goes up 3500 feet to Alto Cruceiro, where a large cross stands. I thought this to be "the one" where you leave your stone and I had been unable to find it in my pack. Feeling disappointed, but thinking the pile of stones there was not the ones people would leave, I encountered a few Italian cyclists who wanted their picture taken, so I obliged. One of them handed me a medallion, which I put in my pocket, and then took my picture.
I looked at the medallion as I continued walking down the hill and saw the image of St. Michael (my favorite Arch Angel!). On the backside there is the Italian congregation from which it came. Absolutely wonderful!! The Camino brings you many such surprises.
At the bottom of the hill in Orbaneja, I stopped at a bar for juice (their fresh squeezed orange juice is delicious) and ice cream. There I met Tom from London and we talked about the way into Burgos. I was trying to find the alternate route which would follow the river and he asked to tag along. Although we met a very helpful man trying to tell us where to go, we still missed the turn off. By the time we made it to the airport, we realized we were on the industrial course to the city. Bummer!! My feet and bones were so tired of walking the road. It was a difficult end to 38 kilometers. But Burgos was worth the suffering. Such a beautiful old city center with the 13th century Cathederal dominating the views! Back outside and around the Cathederal is the main square, filled with restaurants, bars and some shops. Saturday seems to be the day for weddings, as we saw many dressed extravagantly. Walking the promenade felt a little like being at Disneyland. It seemed so perfect!
Without a wide lens, it is impossible to capture this massive church in one frame. As a pilgrim, I received discounted admission to tour so I eagerly entered its doors. There are several chapels around the exterior, the oldest from the 13th century, but many added in the decades after... The incredible arches and domes tower above you, often with painted and adorned ceilings. I loved the rosette windows and even the "fly catcher" a grotesque figure that tells the time. I swear he looks like the Burger King character!
Hi Monja, Tom from London here. Apologies for the late response. I mislaid yr details but have now found your blog and am enjoying catching up with your exploits. Yes, that was an excellent day into and around Burgos, but probably a distant memory for you now, as you've had so many other adventures since then! Best wishes, tom
ReplyDeleteThanks Tom. So nice to hear from you!! How did the rest of your Camino go? I'm planning on doing the Portoguese Route from Porto end of September. My email is mymonja@gmail.com if you have time to share.
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