The day was cool and cloudy, perfect for walking. I had been so exhausted the night before I barely made it to the little shop for groceries. Around the corner was the beautiful 13th century Capilla de San Blas.
And passing through the old city gate, the path ahead was all fields and hills. There were already many pilgrims ahead and behind. Reaching Torres del Rio, I was excited to see the octagonal church similar to Eunate. It was not quite as I imagined with its added tower. And it too was closed. I heard from a fellow pilgrim that Spanish churches are frequently locked due to theft and vandalism.
I liked Viana from the moment it came into view upon the hill. My toe was incredibly sore so I figured this would be my stop. Sitting in front of the Iglesias de Santa María, enjoying cafe y bocadillo, I saw the Albergue I would inquire at. Still closed, I decided to "fix" my feet and retape my toe, I took out the insole to give my toes more space. Wandering the city after, I felt much better. I walked the ruins of San Pedro and took in the scenery of the wine county from above.
Reentering the town and returning to the church, I met up with the Americans. They had taken a taxi and were planning on walking to Logroño.
Inside, the church was so beautiful, the altars are so enormous in these Spanish churches.
Outside, Cesare Borgia is entombed, originally inside, his mausoleum had been vandalized (and here I thought the Borgia family was just an HBO soap).
Although I should have rested after a 30k day, I spent the entire evening wandering this city. I enjoyed the tapas and the wine (YES, the wine!!) from La Tavina, that my Spanish friend recommended. I am happy I continued. Feeling good enough after the hour "rest", I decided to continue to Logroño. The next section is alongside the highway and if I'd had so opted, this would be the better stretch to take a taxi! Logroño is a "big city" by comparison to previous locations. Several churches and a mediveal center make it worthwhile to tour. After a shower, I did just that, enjoying gelato and conversation with an elderly Spanish man.
Returning to the Albergue, I ran into Bernd and Edith from Koblenz. We'd roomed and shared breakfast at the Austrian Albergue.
From Logroño we headed out at 7:30 am and mostly walked the long stretch alongside highway to Navarette. There were stops for credential stamps and mini pause.
Remarkably we made the entire 30k with a quick pace and way before we expected entered Nájera shortly before 3. Showers and laundry done, big birthday dinner to be made shortly, it will be a celebratory pilgrim evening.
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