W'BF

Coming out of my hotel this morning in Matosinhos, I was overwhelmed by the smell of fish and sea. As I entered the Tourist Information Office for my credential stamp, the huge posters read W'BF - Worlds' Best Fish. Ahhh... And as I ventured further through the city on my way to the Pilgrims Path, I passed countless fish markets and warehouses. There were "elderly" women standing in the parking lots of the various institutions selling styrofoam boxes of fish. One pair were arguing most heatedly as I passed (about the quality of her fish I gathered). Accounts for the smell, too bad I hadn't the chance to taste and determine the truth in their advertising claim. 

The morning, late by my previous Camino wanderings, was warm and gloriously sunny. When I found myself away from the coast, I worried I had veered from the path. But soon I came to the Lifting Bridge and made my way across. Back on the coastal boardwalk my whole being was happy. 

There were other pilgrims on the way, all in groups of 2's and 3's, however, no one seemed inclined to say hello or buen camino. Only one other solitary pilgrim walked before me and she diverged on a different path. It feels very different than the Camino Francés...

But the beauty of the Atlantic coast here in Portugal is amazing. Long stretches of sandy beaches, numerous rock formations, sand dunes and a wooden boardwalk nearly the entire stretch.  I loved every moment near the sea.

Chapels and churches, although closed, provided a reminder that you were on a pilgrim path. 

A little detour through a fishing village with boats, crates, cages and yup, a tractor, was a nice change of scenery. 

There are several restaurants and bars along the boardwalk as well. I loved watching the water sparkle in the sunlight as I enjoyed a mid day espresso. I have learned to slow down and enjoy the moment. These 22 +some kilometers were the longest I've ever taken at 7 hours. It felt good to see and do whatever I felt like without the worry of hurrying to "get" somewhere. 

Walking the last two kilometers on the sands to Vila do Conde reminded me of the wonderful beach walk with my peeps in the spring. Although my legs may just strike tomorrow! Eiii!

Once in town, I found my hostel right on the River Ave. Vila do Conde is quite the resort town in July & August, luckily the tourists have gone. I'm sharing my three bed dorm with Vancouver pilgrims, they too have previously walked the CF. 

No time for rest, there are places to see. The convent, Santa Clara sits atop the hill with the longest Roman aqueduct I've ever seen. The views are spectacular! 

 

A 1600's church, capelo do Socorro, with dome roof, inspired by Moorsish style, is so beautifully different, the inside is decorated in the blue and white tiles found often here in Portugal. 

 

And the history of Portuguese exploration lives on here too, Vila do Conde, was once the major ship building port during the Empire. 

Finally time to search for dinner. It seems VdC can demand high prices in their restaurants. A first I've experienced here in Portugal, walking out of a "mid-range" restaurant after reading the menu. Upwards of 30 Euro (and that for Sardines) for seafood entrees. Finding a local "Snack" place, I feasted on an Omelette de Mar. Yummy! And with a 1/2 liter of Sangria, just 10 Euros! 

I'm enjoying my return to Pilgrimhood. Blessed!

W'BF - World's Best Feeling