Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Caminho Costa

When I woke this morning, I figured I was going to catch the bus back to Barcelos and return to the Central Caminho Portuguese. It's what I had a guide for, and that gave me security in knowing where I was going and where I could overnight. I looked out the window of my hotel and figured the fog meant I was making a good decision. 
After a good breakfast and even a bit of lunch to go, I returned to the path, heading for the bus station. 

But the arrows kept going and so did I. 
As long as the path is way marked, how hard could it be?! And I knew there were the two German women from yesterday somewhere ahead... 

Unfortunately just as the clouds lifted, the path turned away from the coast. During much of the route I was probably 5-10 km away. So while I could see it, I was not technically walking on the coast. A map I had seen online showed several variations of this coastal route, but the way marked path is too far from the sea. I did enjoy walking through the coastal terrain, there were hills and forests and villages. There is no major road walking, but cobbled narrow streets are regular pathways. And one still has to watchful of the infrequent drive bys racing through. 



At a river crossing there was a great picnic place where I met up with the two Germans and a Portuguese woman. 


Onward to Santiago Church, it was quite amazing! Not only was the church open, they had clean, comfortable bathrooms for our use!! 





Around the church, through a forest, and up and down a few hills...





And another Santiago church!!

Each time I turned towards the sea I hoped it would continue all the way there.  But the path stayed well away and soon it was time to cross Eiffel's bridge over the river Lima. 



Another issue of being without a guide book is that I really have no idea what I will see or what significance it has. Luckily the major towns have maps and historic references. Alas, Viana Do Costa had no English guides available. From what I can make out, much of the historic center is from the 1600's. 


After a nice early dinner, I found my alburgue. It is behind a church, Igreja Do Carma, and you must ring for the priest or staff to let you in. It is quite lonely here. Yesterday there were five in the guest book, but tonight it's just me... 

Needing to find a place with wifi to upload the map for tomorrow's long stage to A Guarda and check in with peeps, I headed back to town and enjoyed a sangria at a little cafe. Bought a few essentials for the long walk and dessert for the night and returned to my holy bed. Excited about the coast and sticking closer to it tomorrow. Wish there were more perigrinos to share the experience! 

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