Detour East

Having enjoyed a delicious seafood and rice dish after my bowl of Sangria (needed something to absorb all that alcohol!) I returned to my alburgue and longingly looked west. 

I was contemplating a detour. West was my desire, but east has Braga...

Waking to mist and fog, the morning walk to Barcelos was a bit mystical. Small villages, cobbled streets and a few forest paths allowed time for contemplation. 

If I headed west, there was a coastal route from Esposende. If I went east to Braga, I had a chance to visit Portugal's "Rome" and ecclesiastical center. 

Having reached Barcelos in the late morning, I spent a little time sight seeing before I decided my next move.

Between the 12th century Romanesque church, 14th century parish church,15th  century palace and tower, original 17th century town square and its own famous Barcelos Cock, it proved to be an interesting and worthy visit. Having been given directions to the bus station I made my way, a good 15 minute walk to the opposite end of town. However, the place was completely deserted except for one gentleman standing outside. It was quite eerie to be in a major transportation hub and no one else around. It seems they too have Siesta hours. 

The ticket counters are closed from 12-2 pm according to the posted hours, I had arrived at 12:30. The man outside could give me no information, so I decided to head back to town. Wondering if perhaps I should stick to the path and keep walking today. Barely making it to the Visitors Center before they closed at 1 pm, I was able to get information for the Braga bus stop and next scheduled departure at 1:05. Back out into the city, I found my stop in plenty of time and waited. At 1:10, bus boarded, my decision was made - Braga! After a windy, somewhat hilly route, we arrived in the third largest city in Portugal. I had to orient myself without much help, but eventually I found my way into the city center. I passed by a little tavern restaurant and popped my head in to ask if they had wifi. Unfortunately not. Hungry, but needing a place to stay first, I decided to keep going. Around the corner in the heart of the historic district, I found a little hotel in my price range. Yay, single room, private bath! Showering and gathering some necessary information at the Tourist Office, I made it back to the restaurant I'd passed at 4pm. But they closed!! Figuring I'd eat dessert and return for dinner after 8 when they reopened, I went in search of cake. Enjoying some kind of nut flavored cake and iced coffee ( they brought me an espresso and a tall glass of ice) I read over my Camino options for the next day. Apparently, the Camino Interior can be accessed in Braga and will take me to Ponte de Lima where I can return to the central route. No need to bus back to Barcelos. 

Out in the historical center, you can follow the Baroque Route taking you past many of the 30 churches here in Braga. It really is quite spectacular!

Still so many churches to see, but the next requires a bus and it's time to make my way. Bom Jesus do Monte, supposedly THE most visited spot in Portugal, is a remake of Golgotha in Jerusalem. There are 600 steps to the top passing numerous chapels and fountains of purifying waters. I took the funicular, thank you!! It does have quite the view of the city below, although my timing with the sun made it difficult to capture. 

After a bit of a wait for the bus back into town, I did make it to the restaurant at about 8:15. But it is not meant to be... My table had been given away and I was left to find something else. Finding few choices, a baguette sufficed. And now time for more research and contemplation. 

In the morning I will first search for Sé Cathederal, the two thousand year old city's ultimate display of devotion to the Virgin Mary, and where the Camino way markers begin anew. 

And there are still options to return to the coast...