Porto, Portugal

Landing in Porto after the 2 hour 15 minute flight from Weeze (NiederRheine, Deutschland) was a little disconcerting. After having started the Camino Francés with an incredibly long and adventurous bus ride, it seemed almost too easy... The metro ride into downtown went just as easily, as did finding my nights hostel stay. Hmmmm... In fact, my entire stay in Porto has gone perfectly. After checking in and claiming the last bed in my four bed dorm room, I headed out for dinner. 

Wandering and taking pictures I came across a tiny restaurant filled with people. The menu on the window was in English and my first instinct was to keep going. But they had seafood entrees that appealed to me and the clientele looked local. It was a wonderful find, the food was absolutely delicious and the waiter looked like a young Norman Reedus (Boon Dock Saints, Walking Dead). He could not have been more than 20, but he clearly liked his job. Always smiling, he worked the three floors of the restaurant  with such skill and style. It was Ótimo!! 

Returning to the hostel, I enjoyed the views from my fourth floor and still no sign of my bunk mates. 

After a pretty good nights sleep I headed out for breakfast, leaving the three girls who partied late, still sleeping. Just outside the hotel's door was a cozy outdoor cafe. Filling up on coffee, fresh orange juice and a jam filled donut (agh, the sweet breakfasts are back!), I ventured into the city again. Being right in the middle of two (out of 60) churches, I went from Trinadade church to Cathederal Sé, spending just enough time in each before heading to meet the free city walking tour at 10:45 in Praça Liberdade. 

At Sé Cathederal, I received my first Pilgrim Credential Stamp and took note of the way markers. 

The 3 + hour walking tour took us through many interesting parts of the city. We visited the São Bento train station, declared the tenth most beautiful in the world. 

Its clock is the same described clock from Harry Potter stories. Interestingly, JK Rowling wrote much of her first book here in Porto during a stint as an English instructor. She used many sights from the city to describe her Hogwarts World. 

The tile panels or azulejos depict transportation scenes and historical events, including the battles between the Portuguese and Spanish. 

Portugal was quite the empire during the "discoveries" of new worlds. In fact just recently it was determined that Portugal had "founded" Australia and not the Brits. Walking over the ancient city walls and modern Eiffel bridges, Porto is a mixture of old and new. Visiting the 13th century neighborhoods with narrow streets and steep steps, and eating fresh made chocolate cake from the local bakery, make Porto feel so authentic. 

After the city tour we ended up on the riverside. This was where I intended to begin my Camino. The Rio Douro flows into the Atlantic about 5 km from here and from there I will walk on another 5 km to Matosinhos.

 

The walk along the river was mostly boardwalk shared with cyclists and casual walkers. I saw no other pilgrims; many will walk directly from Porto to Barcelos via the central route, and others will begin the coastal route further on in Matosinhos after taking public transport. The weather was perfect for walking and after three months of city tours, being in the city did not bother me. I did get excited seeing the harbor and the opening into the Atlantic. The ocean is such a beautiful wonder. 

Taking a break at a little tapas bar on the boardwalk, I listened and watched as the waves crashed on rocks and shore. This is a famous surf spot, although today's onshore winds left it devoid of surfers. 

Continuing on boardwalk and beach, I arrived in the little coastal community of Matosinhos. 

My phone battery had died thirty minutes before, but another easy find to my hotel had me charging up again. Taking the time for a quick nap ensured both me any my phone were ready to check out the town. Nearly sunset, I headed straight to the beach for photos. 

The wind and waves had calmed, but the water is really cold, no swimming for me. 

After a quick stop at the supermarket for fruit and water, I made my way to a suggested restaurant just a block from the hotel. With very little common language, the waiter helped me order one of the daily specials with fish. What came was roasted pork and potatoes with a few clams on top. 

I suppose not everything can be perfect...