Sunday, September 27, 2015

Detour West

Spending an absolutely beautiful Sunday morning visiting more of Braga. I haven't managed more than a third of their churches, but the ones I've visited are works of art. I really enjoyed the Gardens of Santa Barbara and the dragon fountain along my explorations.




Having found the main cathederal, I wandered the grounds where Roman artifacts lay in exhibit and the outer chapels, one with a statue of Santiago. 
The interior is quite Gothic with towering columns, vaulted ceiling and small windows. There are huge monitors to help the masses watch mass. It's altar is rather simple. 



Outside are yellow arrows in the direction of Caminho Interior, but after finding it to be much on roads, I've decided to return west.  

Catching the last bus of the day I left for Esposende at 1pm. Having walked alongside the road with these Portuguese drivers, I'm rather impressed that I've ridden with them - and survived. Harrowing turns and racing through narrow spaces seemed routine, and the size of the vehicle did not matter. The drive took an hour and a half and we arrived right into thick fog. Darn!

As I was making my way into the town center, I met two peregrinas, walking the opposite direction. I asked if they spoke English, and they did. I asked if they were following the coastal route and she pulled out a guide and said they were on the coastal path now but were turning inland soon. I asked if they had passed any alburgues and when they responded in Getman, I laughed. I told them I could speak German as well. I gathered some more information from them before they headed on, they were very concerned I was traveling without a guidebook. I assured them I did, just not the right one.  I had seen a hostel on Booking.com supposedly just the other side of the bridge. But after walking a few kilometers and quickly reaching the end of town, I stopped and inquired at a small hotel for a room. I had made my decision to return to the Central Route and wanted to be close to the bus station for an early departure. 
The hotel is very nice, empty and reasonable enough. Balconies look over the mouth of the Cávado river, but with the fog I opt for a room away from the street. 

After talking to my GMan about my wanderings, I headed into town for sights and dinner. There is a long boardwalk that follows the river as it meets the ocean. 
As I walked the distance to the Atlantic, the sound of the fog horn echoed continuously. 


It is beautiful even in the cold, wet fog. 



The town center is small with lots of pedestrian zones. The shops are closed but many patisseries are open and a few cafes. The few restaurants are full and I stop in a cafe for Vihno Verde (Thanks Tom!!), and try my first Francesinha (little Frenchie). It's a Porto based version of the French croque-monsieur, VERY bad for the heart and diet as it's loaded with cheese and meat with a sauce of beer, cheese and chili. Tasted good, but I'll let one be enough. 
And now that I've satisfied the desire to see the sea again, I'm ready to get back to my Camino! 

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