Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Deutschland Adventures with GMan

Waking early Monday morning, August 24, I nervously readied for my trip to Düsseldorf International Airport. Today was the day, my solo travels became a duo adventure trip - with my Amazing GMan! After a prompt arrival and amorous welcome, we hit the road for home in Rhede. Stopping first in Bocholt, we said hello to my Aunt Regina at the Deutsche Bank and enjoyed G's first (for this trip) German breakfast in downtown.
Once at home, G had to quickly pack a getaway bag and off we went, back to Bocholt and the train station. A surprise awaited him for our first adventure! We picnicked during the 3 1/2 hour trip with a couple of sandwiches picked up at the station to go along with some wine. We made it to the middle Rhine River Valley and Bacharach at about 4:30, most of the beautiful scenery was missed due to much needed nap time, but that will be remedied later.  Dealing with the mega travel day, we explored the medieval streets only until dinner time, shared a German meal at Zur Kupferkanne, and headed up the steep steps to our Burg Stahleck hostel, where we found a pilgrims sign. 

Stahleck Castle
 is a 12th-century fortified castle. It stands on a crag approximately 160 metres (520 ft) above sea level on the left bank of the river at the mouth of the Steeg valley, approximately 50 kilometres (31 mi) south of Koblenz, and offers a commanding view of the Lorelei valley.  Upon checking in we found that our room indeed had a wonderful view of the river valley and came complete with seven beds (3 bunk beds and 1 standard twin)!!
And luckily without seven dwarfs!
   


Breakfast in the hostel was filled with families, it is a very popular destination for Germans with small children. Staying in a real castle is quite the adventure! After packing up we headed back down the hill, towards the river. We bought tickets for a cruise along the Rhine, first heading north to Sankt Goar and then south to Rudesheim.
In St. Goar, we had a 45 minute layover and explored the little village with its cuckoo clock and beer stein stores. I learned a lot about the workings and music of the cuckoo clocks so famous in Germany. The middle Rhine is called the Romantic Rhine and is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We passed many castles and beautiful hillside villages, with orderly vineyards rising, at times what appeared impossibly up the steep river valley slopes along either side.  To add to our enjoyment, we were treated to the traditional German folk song "Die Lorelei" as our cruise passed the historic rock outcropping just south of St, Goar. 
Almost immediately opposite Bacharach the cruise boat passes Lorchhausen, Lorch and Fortress Nollig (now a ruin) on the left-hand side. On the opposite side of the Rhine, the ruins of Fortress Furstenberg rise above Rheindiebach followed by the castle Heimburg on the hills up to Niederheimbach. The castle Heimburg was built after 1290 from the archbishop of Mainz on the same place of a former roman fort.
Niederheimbach is surrounded by 3 castles and ruins: to the north from the ruins of Fortress Furstenberg and to the south from castle Sooneck. 
Towards the southern end of Trechtingshausen and just north of Bingen is Fortress Reichenstein. 
Castle Rheinstein is just a little further upstream. Balanced on a steep rock, it is a fairytale castle similar to Neuschwanstein. 
Arriving in Rudesheim, we had another hour to explore. We set off to find the famous tiny street filled with souvenir shops, wine and beer gardens, and restaurants. Getting "lost" along the way, we came across St. James church, originally from the 13th century, and its pilgrimage sign. 

After a short while we finally found the street, the Drosselgasse, a 144 meter long narrow cobblestone paved pedestrian zone. The second biggest attraction in Germany, according to Wikipedia. We walked into the throng of tourists. Many of the seats were taken in the outdoor places,  So we decided to instead enjoy two cones of gelato and keep walking. We listened to various musicians and the ringing of the carillon along the way and made our way back out towards the ship.

Back in Bacharach, we enjoyed our second Deutches meal, complete with beer before rushing to our return train.
Arriving back in Bocholt late evening, we took a taxi home to Rhede. G's first night in Rhede. After a late breakfast, we headed straight for the bus stop and boarded for Münster. I had hoped to get a walking tour for St. Peter's church and the astronomical clock. With minor complications we found the central tourist office and a guide to take us through Münster providing great history - but all in German! After the tour we shared a treat and then decided to leave the historic portions of the city and ventured to the new river walk area.  There we found numerous restaurants and drinking establishments along this wonderful little work in progress, ultimately wandering into, and having drinks at a nearly perfect recreation of a Baja California beach bar straight out of Rosarito, Mexico. G was fading fast, barely managing to hold off sleep until the bus ride back. He then indulged me in a downtown Rhede stop to see St. Gudula church and have tapas at Tante Änna's. Of course, that was followed by the must do Rhede Ample (Stoplight) shots!!
The next day was Thursday and after a morning run/bike around the nearby lake, we were set to make tacos and Spanish rice for the whole family here. Spending the morning together shopping for ingredients was lots of fun and rather challenging. But with only a few substitutions, including the inadvertent inclusion of turkey to the menu (Hmm, I thought that was a rather large chicken breast!) we made our way to my Aunt Maria's where we prepped most of the dinner by early afternoon. Heading back for a rest, we wandered the town, Monja sharing with me the places where she spent so many summers, stopping at Cafe Adria, my favorite ice cream place and enjoying huge treats!!
After resting, we returned and finished making dinner for the Bäckers, Eppings, and Böings. Much gratitude to the Bäckers for hosting and providing the drinks and after dinner chocolate. It was a great success!
On Friday, we borrowed bikes and traveled towards Borken-Gemen via the beautiful castles route through forest and farmland, stopping for a leisurely picnic along the way.

After a wonderful 48 kilometer ride, we enjoyed another afternoon of rest. Much needed, tonight is Kirmes! The last Sunday of every August, carnival rides, beer stands, and food booths take over the entire town of Rhede. It is a fair filled with family, friends, fried food, beer, schnapps and fun!


Saturday was Alexander's birthday and a wonderful breakfast buffet was given by Regina and Heinz in his honor. It was such a treat to share his special day with him and the family as we toasted Proseco and ate fresh Brötchen with all the fixings. We walked to Bocholt for shopping and gelato, after washing and packing. Errands completed, we readied ourselves for the next adventures. One more night of Kirmes fun and we were set for the mornings departure to Vienna and beyond!

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