Border Crossing

My morning started with yummy baked goods from a patisserie just across from my alburgue. The moon, still looking rather full was just lowering in the western sky. 

I had to gather my will and wits for the walk today. Using a map I'd downloaded from a German website (translated from a Spanish one), I was going onto paths less traveled. It was also going to be long walk at nearly 40km. 

The weather could not be more perfect to walk along the coast. 

I followed the coast via concrete boardwalk until a detour due to construction, gave me some bonus mileage through the corn fields. 

And finally after cobbled streets a hard packed dirt track. 

Along the way old forts (1600's) and towers (1400's) stood sentry on the coastline. I loved how the Portuguese leave their beaches unspoiled by buildings. And I do so love their wooden boardwalks over the sand dunes!

Alternating with sandy paths and boardwalks, the beach is typically just a few hundred feet from me. The tide was low so when an opportunity arose to cross the dunes, I walked about 4-5km on the beach itself! Fabulous feeling! 

I had the pleasure of walking through coastal forest as well. Hearing the surf and seabirds added so much to the beauty. 

About 18km in and the ending of the boardwalk was not a welcome sight... Luckily it was just a kilometer on the sand before a return to hard surface. The muscles I use on the uneven sinking sands seem to scream the loudest when my body is tired! Over a bridge and I'm in Villa Praia de Áncora. My map lists a few restaurants (and one with a stamp for my credential!) and it was perfect timing for lunch. 

Finally a fantastic seafood meal! Casa Dos Caracóis was the best recommendation! And they had Vihno Verde too, glad I ordered a small (carafe). 

Feeling a bit woozy (but not enough to go singing arm and arm in the streets) I hit the way again. The true Portuguese Costal route was to merge with my alternate coastal route here and I had hoped to see fellow pilgrims. 

Alternating once again with paths, cobbled street, and boardwalks, beaches and forests, I finally came to the river Minho. 

Although my walk had been long and I had the option of staying in Caminha just around this bend... 

I felt the need to go on and headed for the ferry. 

I had asked the attendant at the Ferry if he'd seen many pilgrims today. He said there were quite a few who had sailed that morning. Seems I am behind a group following the coastal way. As the ferry set sail, I realized I was leaving Portugal! Wait! I hadn't had a proper goodbye...

Too soon it passed. I really enjoyed Portugal, and someday I will share it with my GMan! 

Ahead is Spain, and a return to the region of Galicia. 

Credential stamped for the first time in Spain and I'm off again on the Camino.

I decide to follow the arrows through the peninsula instead of the scenic route around the coast line. I'll save up those extra kilometers for visiting the next destination!

And I'm so glad I did. A Guarda is a beautiful Spanish port city. And being quite hilly, my feet are very happy I didn't add even more mileage!!

A great Galician meal of fresh fish with boiled potatoes, a delicious house white, and exquisite dessert as I enjoyed the setting sun.  

As I walk back through the streets I am once again delighted at the lively family activities all around. What a wonderful place to be a kid! Spain, beautiful Spain! Tomorrow begins the España Camino Costa... 

Caminho Costa

When I woke this morning, I figured I was going to catch the bus back to Barcelos and return to the Central Caminho Portuguese. It's what I had a guide for, and that gave me security in knowing where I was going and where I could overnight. I looked out the window of my hotel and figured the fog meant I was making a good decision. 

After a good breakfast and even a bit of lunch to go, I returned to the path, heading for the bus station. 

But the arrows kept going and so did I. 

As long as the path is way marked, how hard could it be?! And I knew there were the two German women from yesterday somewhere ahead... 

Unfortunately just as the clouds lifted, the path turned away from the coast. During much of the route I was probably 5-10 km away. So while I could see it, I was not technically walking on the coast. A map I had seen online showed several variations of this coastal route, but the way marked path is too far from the sea. I did enjoy walking through the coastal terrain, there were hills and forests and villages. There is no major road walking, but cobbled narrow streets are regular pathways. And one still has to watchful of the infrequent drive bys racing through. 

At a river crossing there was a great picnic place where I met up with the two Germans and a Portuguese woman. 

Onward to Santiago Church, it was quite amazing! Not only was the church open, they had clean, comfortable bathrooms for our use!! 

Around the church, through a forest, and up and down a few hills...

And another Santiago church!!

Each time I turned towards the sea I hoped it would continue all the way there.  But the path stayed well away and soon it was time to cross Eiffel's bridge over the river Lima. 

Another issue of being without a guide book is that I really have no idea what I will see or what significance it has. Luckily the major towns have maps and historic references. Alas, Viana Do Costa had no English guides available. From what I can make out, much of the historic center is from the 1600's. 

After a nice early dinner, I found my alburgue. It is behind a church, Igreja Do Carma, and you must ring for the priest or staff to let you in. It is quite lonely here. Yesterday there were five in the guest book, but tonight it's just me... 

Needing to find a place with wifi to upload the map for tomorrow's long stage to A Guarda and check in with peeps, I headed back to town and enjoyed a sangria at a little cafe. Bought a few essentials for the long walk and dessert for the night and returned to my holy bed. Excited about the coast and sticking closer to it tomorrow. Wish there were more perigrinos to share the experience!