León

Arrived in León on Sunday afternoon with fellow prilgrims, Jim, Kelly, Nosomi, Juan and Erika. Kelly and Erika were from Oregon and Washington, so we had the West Coast covered. Jim and Juan were heading to their respective homes so we were feeling bittersweet at our pilgrims lunch, but it was so nice to be with great people. 

León is the largest Spanish city I've seen thus far and very impressive. After checking in at my luxury suite and feeling like a kid in a candy shop, I headed out to explore the Cathederal. Begun in the 13th century it is a gothic example with amazing stained glass windows and massive nave. I had the fortunate timing to witness a relic being ceremoniously brought in and received by the cardinal(?). 

Any catholic enthusiasts know what this was? 

Meet some of our group for ice cream and drinks before heading to a tapas bar. Someone needs to bring Yelp to Spain! Through trip advisor I located a place in the shopping district, Meson de Burgos, where we had really good tuna fish with fresh salsa and some other dish our Croatian friend, Marijana found delicious. We'd wanted to try more dishes, but stomachs were full and some had curfews to meet. Goodbyes were said, I was staying an extra day and Jim was returning to Australia, the rest walking again today. 

I spent the extra day in León to rest, restock, and send some items to Germany. I'd carried my poles for nearly 450 kilometers without using them. I did a bit of shopping to suit up a little warmer for the mountains of Galicia, although it's difficult to imagine it being cold with the heat wave sweeping across Spain. A new fleece and some leggings were bought just in case, and a dress for "city" wear, I then sent some other items home to make up the weight difference. I was pretty proud of myself for finding the post office, but sending those sticks home was nearly the cost of them. It was worth it since I had more in the package, including a souvenir for Elijah. Business completed, I returned to the Cathederal square for lunch. It was nice to sit and watch the pilgrims arrive, a few familiar faces from along the way. 

Took in the Museo San Isidoro de León in the late afternoon, which is right across the way from my hotel. It has some very old bibles (960) and what they claim may be the chalice of the last supper. Pretty interesting. I liked the frescos on the ceiling in the burial vault - where more than 23 kings and queens are buried. It also has the most ancient Romanesque cloister where King Alfonso celebrated court in 1188. I love the history of these places and how new and old embrace. 

Footsteps

Today I walked in the footsteps of Ceasar Augustus, Charlemagne and millions of other famous, infamous or unnamed persons, on Calzada Romana. It is classified as the most perfect extant of roman road left in Spain today. Over 20 centuries of footsteps...

I tried to think as one of "them". How did it feel to walk endlessly towards battle?? redemption?? for pay??  Did they see these endless expanses of blue and brown? The green life popping into view here and there?  Were the birds and bugs creating background music? Did the smell of earth fill their senses? Were the birds of prey swooping down from above? Did the storks walk the fields? 

It was those thoughts of the past that really brought me into the moment. "Being in the moment" is such a catch phrase, a prevalent philosophy of modern pilgrims. But who really lives in the moment? Even a pilgrim whose daily rituals have become so basic in human needs think of the next step, and the next meal, and the next bed. Humans are planners, thinkers of the future. This road would not exist without planning. My journey would never have begun without planning. We plan the next task at work, we plan the next activity in recreation, we plan for good things and we plan for bad. So when do we live in the moment? I believe it is only during the purest form of communication between people - conversation. When we listen and receive both verbal and physical responses with one another, we live the moment. Being a teacher, I've seen the decline in "listening skills". We turn on the TV, we turn on our smartphones, we turn up the radio... We give "one ear" to devices and one to our companions and rarely listen with intent to anything. So listen people! Get out, go outside and walk with someone. Leave the devices at home and enjoy the moments together. It is beautiful! 

Sahagún

Following a quiet road from Caldadilla de la Cueza, Juan and I walked the 22 kilometers into Sahagún in less than 6 hours. Juan is a basque spainard walking his second Camino. Three years ago he broke his leg so badly they thought he may never walk again. Since then, and after much painful physical therapy,he's living life fully. He had insightful views of enjoying Sunday through Saturday and not just working for the weekend, of living in the moment.  

The walk took us through Terradillos de Los Templarios, the halfway point between St. Jean de Pied de Port where I started and Santiago. Here the buildings are mainly built of the red mud of the land, more like adobe. Houses or caves dug into the side of hills store wine and become meeting halls. 

It was good to have a Spanish guide, although his English is so good that I learned no Spanish! Sahagún refers to itself as the geographical center of the Camino beginning in Roncesvalles, after the Pyrenees and on Spanish soil. It has very interesting brick Mudejar buildings from the Middle Ages. 

The Monasterio de la Peregrina is a former Franciscan convent converted to a museum and where they provide the "halfway" certificate to pilgrims. It has a beautiful 13th century nave with the Virgin dressed as a pilgrim. 

More than halfway doesn't feel so close. This journey is long and it's been so many different things, both expected and unexpected. I am happy to be here, I am glad to be on my way...

FOMO

Yesterday I learned a new expression, "FOMO, the fear of missing out".  It is what drives many of us to this frantic pace of getting somewhere or buying things. How many of us constantly check our smartphone for the latest check in or text? How often do we race to the top without conscienceness of what we passed? Studies have shown that the tone of a message coming in releases more serotonin than any other sound in college adults. And from personal experience, it affects me the same. I can't wait to turn on my wifi and receive texts from loved ones, it's the highlight of my afternoon. So what AM I missing out on? I can not be objective...

During my walks, my phone makes it out only for pictures, I have no contact with those far away. My walks revolve around the scenery, the people I'm with, or those emotions within. I think you can be quite profound in such circumstances. I've certainly had my share of insights and from those of fellow pilgrims. 

But today was a seemingly endless walk on an ancient roman road. There was little shade and no villages for the 17.1k from Carrión to Caldadilla. And besides queasiness in my stomach and the thud in my head, the only thing I could summon on my journey today was to avoid strong Spanish drinks at the end of lunch!! 

Below are some views of Carrión-

 

And the road into Caldadilla-

Tomorrow I cross the "magic line" of halfway between St. Jean and Santiago. 

Alternate Routes

Today was a day for an alternate route and in the company of others. I began my walk with Manuel from Italy. He's in his 20's and quite discontent with his life. He quit his jobs and is walking the Camino before moving to London to play his music. After Frómista we went out srperate ways in search of food to sustain us through the Meseta route. 

At Poplación de Campos I encountered some Aussies looking for the river way route as I was. I ducked into a shop for some sweet peaches and quickly caught up as they found the path. It's a bit longer from away from the road. You walk over some canal locks that look seriously old. 

In Villalcàzar de Sirga is a beautiful church, Santa Maria with a panel depicting the life of St. James. 

It was here in the square that Jeff, Jim and Rick persuaded me to join them for lunch. Usually very hungry, but I'd already had some bocadillo, I hesitated. But they were pilgrims of leisure and I need to slow down, what better way to practice! We enjoyed a pilgrims menu with salmon (my first here and delicious!) and an amazing wine. Rick with his exquisite Spanish and style got us perfect service. The owner brought us this incredible coffee drink mixed with liquor and anise cookies at the end of the meal. It was so yummy, I had seconds. Lunch lasted about 3 1/2 hours and the conversation was just as wonderful as the meal. It was an experience I'll treasure. 

With the afternoon pressing on, I had to move. The three had booked their luxury accommodations already, but I needed to secure a bed. We all left together and they asked me to set the pace for the remains 6k. (Big mistake 'eh gang?). In their record time we got to Carrión de Los Condes. By 4:30 I was safely in my alburgue, with the nuns at Santa Maria. Shower, laundry, rest and then an amazing shared circle of music. Manuel was here too and he played the most emotionally charged Pink Floyd "Wish You Were Here" I'd ever heard. Thinking of you, Greg, I wish you were here! A nun sat holding my hand while we sang and cried. A brief tour of the city this evening and an Aqua con gas to ease the alcohol effects of earlier. Sat with the boys a bit and listened to a band practicing for an upcoming festival. After they left to shop for morning supplies, I watched the Spanish grandmothers dance with their little ones, I miss you Elijah!! It was a good day! Buen Camino!

Boadilla del Camino

My first views out onto the Meseta from my refuge in San Bol. 

It was a perfect day for walking, the thick clouds holding back the heat of the sun. A few drops of rain to keep you cool as you walk. I still have a long stretch of this endless wheat field "hell" to go through, but thus far it's been nothing but beautiful. 

It's always a sight to see when the villages or towns come into view. The steeples and be towers of the church rising high into the sky. 

These are the ruins of St. Anton, where the Antoine Order had a pilgrims' hospital known for its cure of a fungal skin disease. The order used the power of Tau (love) in its healing practice and the symbol has become known as the Pilgrim Cross. The nuns at the Santa Clara convent now make these wooden Tau symbols and sell them. 

Castrojerez was a major stopping point for mediveal pilgrims and also the site of much fighting. It has ruins from Roman and Visigoth occupancy. 

The church from the 14th century has a rosette window from Germany. 

After Castrojerez there is a long climb back to the Meseta and an even steeper downhill. But more green is becoming evident as the fields now contain corn. It was a long journey to Itero de la Vega where I was finally able to buy some fresh fruit at the Supermercado (literally half the size of a 7-11!) and made my way to Boadilla del Camino. A sleepy town with a super alburgue by the church. Atop of towers, storks have made their nests and from my window I can hear their snapping bills. 

The owner here is an artist and there are paintings everywhere. He's also a master of Castellean food and we enjoyed the pilgrims meal with a large group today. Lots of Germans and a few Americans at our table today. 

And now I hear the bells as they ring the hours, time for bed...

Rest Day

With my feet still aching after the walk into Burgos, I knew the day would be short. The soles of my feet were incredibly sore from the pounding of the road. I'd been compensating and walking differently and now the top of my right foot was hurting. If I knew what a bone spur was, I'd say it felt like that. Whatever  it is, after 22k at 12:30 I decided to stay in Hornillos. I had first set my sights on the alburgue with communal dinner, it being full, I went to a new one across the way. There I also found Mia, who I'd met coming out of Burgos that morning. She's a very young adult heading to the University of Santa Barbara in the fall. She was walking the Camino alone to give her self efficiency. It certainly showed her courage, and she was meeting a lot of people. Her family would meet her in Santiago on the 14th, which I thought was an incredibly wonderful way for them to celebrate her journey. After napping/resting for a couple hours, I took a shower, laundered and got to FaceTime my loved ones. After a rest in the big garden, I ventured in search of food. At the only bar/restaurant in the town, I met Mia, Erika (from Oregon/Utah), and Paul (from Amsterdam) and we shared the pilgrim's menu dinner with wine and dessert as always included. After conversation about teaching and traveling we returned to the garden and restored ourselves  with WiFi and Facebook. Early to bed since many intended on leaving first thing to beat the heat of the Meseta. The endless wheat fields without shade, sometimes referred to as "hell". I knew my own travels would be brief with the lure of a rest day, but I laid in bed happy to catch up on emails and connections to home. At 6:30 am, I awoke to the last pilgrim silently leaving the 10 person room. At the breakfast table, only three of us still there enjoying coffee and toast. By 7:30, and an hour earlier than wanted, I was out the door and walking slowly through town. It would be the hardest part, going slowly and intentionally along the way. When others past me, I took deep breaths and reminded myself it was a rest day and to enjoy the luxury of walking in the cool morning even if for just 5k. At 9 am I arrived in San Bol, a house/alburgue with a small pool of the supposed healing waters flowing through pipes. Met a couple from San Diego, both teachers, walking after he had kidney stone removal surgery in Bayonne two weeks ago. Incredible!! They helped me translate my wishes to stay at the alburgue, even though it was too early. It appeared to have worked because throughout the day as others arrived, she always deferred to me as the one waiting for a bed. I alternated putting my feet in the incredibly cold healing waters and sitting under the huge trees throughout the morning. At noon, I had my standard bocadillo from the hostellier and made a plan for the upcoming walks. An Italian woman was waiting as well and soon a German, Eva, arrived. We were conversing as well we could with the three of us when done more Italians arrived, 3 students I'd seen previously. The Italians were a lively bunch and Eva and I were glad there were two of us    We shared a bottle of wine before dinner and were eager for the communal meal to come, chicken paella! Eventually the 12 person alburgue was full and the round dinner table set. Besides Eva and I there was a swede and 9 Italians, a lively dinner!