Entering Athens from the airport, I was unceremoniously dumped, along with many other passengers, in an unidentified section of the city. Apparently a 24 hour strike had been scheduled and Syntagma Square, where our bus was supposed to go, was the location of rioting Athenians. Luckily Google Maps found a route to my hostel that bypassed any problems. Walking in an unknown city in unknown neighborhoods covered in graffiti was a bit daunting. I was very happy to be doing so in daylight.
Reaching Athens Quinta, I was welcomed by Eva, the lovely hostess, who gave me the lowdown on the strike and where to go. She says, "Go to Plaka or Monastiraki or even the National Garden, but stay away from Syntagma Square, they're using tear gas. All the museums and archeological sites are closed, too. " Okay... "I can tell you this in a calm manner, because it happens all the time here in Athens, don't worry! Tomorrow it will be okay." Well then, I'm off to explore the uneffected Athens!! Heading up Lycabettus Hill, I get the 360 degree view of this huge city and a bit of an orientation.
I find my way to the beautiful, peaceful neighborhood of Plaka. Catching a glimpse of Hadrian's Arch, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the Acropolis, I'm excited to see at least a little of what I'd come for.
Wandering the shops, specialty cafes and hip restaurants, I decided on a pre dinner dessert of Greek yogurt with honey and nuts. It was still early afternoon and I took in as much of the area as I could before wandering far and beyond my little circle on the map.
Riot police and a few bashed windows seemed to indicate I'd come to the hotbed of the striking and rioting populace. But nothing else was out of the ordinary for such a big city and I explored unafraid. Eventually I found my way back to Plaka and a little side street restaurant recommended by Rick Steves. I've lost the business card, but you can find it right behind the Acropolis Museum. Great food, great service and very cheap!
Walking the long way home, I hoped to burn off some of the intake of the evening. The hostel was pretty empty, just a few friendly guests in the living room. It was actually nice having the room to myself this evening.
Waking early to reach the Acropolis at opening time, I found my orientation was not as good as I thought. A bit lost, I walked quite a long way before finally reaching the south slope entrance. Lots of columns and various building materials from the archeological sites are displayed in the lower section. I was anxious to reach the top so I did not take in much else. Heading up the hill (Acropolis means "the Sacred Rock" or high city in Greek), I passed the stadium I'd seen yesterday evening, from a different perspective.
The gate leading to the ruins is part of a 3rd century fortification.
From which you enter into the shrine of Aphrodite. Passing through this "pathway of columns"...
it was hard to appreciate its own beauty as the Panthenon rises before you to the right.
And the Erechtheion and the Old Temple of Athena with its Porch of the Maidens on your left.
The power of goddesses called me over to Athena first. Such a magnificent structure. The Caryatids are six female figures 1.77 meters in height supporting the roof. Underneath them purportedly the tomb of Cecrops, the founder of Athens.
The sacred olive tree of Athena being harvested.
The Erechtheion was a double building dedicated both to Athena and to Poseidon! No wonder the pull here was strong.
I finally pulled away and gave myself over to the Panthenon. The Parthenon was built as a temple in 432 BC, housing a 12 meter statue of Athena elaborately decorated in full armor and rendered in ivory and gold. The sculptural decorations represented the core of a mythical past, struggles of the city and respect for the gods. It also housed the public treasury. Since then it has been badly damaged by fire, war, transformations into churches and a mosque, and finally by the pillaging Lord Elgin. What a sight it must have been. But still a wonder now.
Restoration and "precise copies" of original sculptures and building materials is slowly bringing the Acropolis back to its former glory. Perhaps my grandson will see that.
The Temple of Athena Nike at a corner of the Panthenon.
And another temple seen farther afield.
Athens is "littered" with archeological sites. One must be armed with a knowledgeable guide (or guidebook) and plenty of time to see and appreciate them all.
A view of Acropolis from the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Began in the 6th century BC it was finally finished in the 2nd century AD along with Hadrian's Arch.
Wandering these ancient sites made me question why humans continue to destroy what others have built. What determines the "worth" or asthetic value of what others have created? Can we learn to appreciate before beauty is lost or ruined?
Athens, Greece - the birthplace of democracy now on strike for high taxes and unemployment. Once the greatest preindustrialed economy, Greece suffers from high budget deficits and corruption. The cradle has been robbed, but there is still much to appreciate in Athens.
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