History of Istanbul

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey and is among the 25 largest urban areas in the world. It is located on the Bosphorus Strait and covers the entire area of the Golden Horn - a natural harbor. Because of its size, Istanbul extends into both Europe and Asia. 

The city is the world’s only metropolis to extend into more than one continent

The city of Istanbul is important to geography because it has a long history that spans the rise and fall of the world's most famous empires.

Istanbul was founded as Byzantium in the mid-6th century BC, and for several centuries, it stayed a fairly small backwater town in the Roman Empire. 

In 324 AD, the Roman ruler Constantine the Great remade the city into an Imperial capital, renamed it Constantinople, and increased the population from about 2,000 to 350,000. In 392, Theodosius, prohibited the performance of pagan rituals, and 45 years later, his descendent Theodosios II ordered the destruction of pagan temples and monuments. The process of Christianization of Constantinople had begun.

A third of a 3500 year old obelisk taken from Egypt by the Romans. (The other two thirds were on separate ships that had sunk.) It was erected in the hippodrome along with the 5th century Serpent Column taken from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi, a 10th century column from which the bronze plates have long since been looted, and multiple statues now in the museum or gone  completely. 

During the reign of Justinian (527-565), Constantinople's 500,000 people experienced a period of high prestige and cultural importance among the societies in Europe and Asia. Justinian extended the Byzantine empire to an area enclosed by the Danube southward to middle Egypt, and between the Rock of Gibraltar and the Euphrates River. Justinian built the Hagia Sophia, a tremendous architectural achievement. It was the largest cathedral in Christiandom and it would remain so until the Cathedral of Seville was completed nearly one thousand years later. 

He also had the Basilica Cistern built during his reign. A 9,800 square meter "Sunken Palace" of 336 marble columns with a capacity to store 100,000 tons of water. Two of the columns rest on Medusa heads that appear to be masterpieces of Roman antiquity. 

The Justinian empire fell apart shortly after his death, and by 750, Constantinople's population had dropped to 50,000.

The empire had a revival between the 9th and 12th centuries; but Constantinople was captured during the Crusades in 1204, and it fell to the Ottoman empire under the direction of Mehmet I in 1453. Population estimates for Constantinople in the 18th century range between 400,000 and one million.

Constantinople was officially renamed Istanbul in 1923; and as a result of its long and varied history, today it retains some of the most beautiful architecture in the world. 

Most of its churches have been converted to mosques and the city now has over 2,500 of them. I made my virgin visit to the Little Hagia Sophia mosque, originally a 6th century church for Saints Bacchus and Sergious. Taking off my shoes and covering my hair, I walked on blue carpet towards the mihrab, which indicates the direction east to Mecca. 

There are absolutely no images allowed in the mosque and it is ornamented only by the Koranic verses written in beautiful calligraphy and colorful tiles. Muslims take the second commandment of not making an image of God very seriously. 

I then had the opportunity to enter a 16th century mosque created by the architect Sinan before it officially opened with my small tour group. Here we were not allowed to take pictures for one of the few "stones from heaven" was within the mihrab. The three Muslims in our group touched the sacred stone. (I did not out of respect for their faith, but it was quite reminiscent of Catholics touching relics and statues.)

Our third mosque visit was Sinan's masterpiece, the imperial mosque of Süleymanlye. It's simplicity and lighting were magnificent as were the stained glass windows. 

This large complex also had buildings for a soup kitchen, a school, a bathhouse and the Sultan's tomb. Entering the cemetery through a marble arch, it was quite impressive to see the wearing on the marble steps. 

Baths and fountains are everywhere in Istanbul and each mosque has a section outside where the faithful can purify themselves by washing. It was interesting to watch the men, as they splashed the water on their faces, then scrubbed feet, hands and arms before entering the mosque. It was a chilly day and I have a feeling that the water is not heated. I saw no women do this as their purification areas are separate and closed off. 

 Sinan's tomb and the location of another fountain. 

After my four hour, which became six, Hidden Istanbul Walking Tour I had lunch at a recommended kebab place in the Grand Bazaar area. It was very tasty and I was given the special chili sauce on the house. Spicy, but no match for my well trained taste buds! 

Wandering the mazes of the Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar, dodging the constant "come ons" of the sales people, I finally found my way back to my hotel. Charging my phone and myself, I rested for just a bit. 

Heading west I crossed over the Galeta Bridge to New Istanbul watching all the fishermen pull in the bonitos. 

Entering the famous coffee district, I enjoyed a traditional Turkish coffee. 

Feeling invigorated I climbed the hill to Galeta Tower, paid my 20 Turkish Lira and rode 2/3 up via the elevator. After that it's three more flights up and you're out on the narrow ledge with countless others. I don't think they have a fire code here... But the views to Old Istanbul are fabulous. 

There's a glimpse of the Asian side of Istanbul as well. 

Feeling claustrophobic I exited the ledge back into the safety of the high end restaurant. Taking in only the interesting history of Galeta Tower, I left wiser and no poorer. 

The tower originally built as a lighthouse by Constantine had been rebuilt several times. Reportedly (by Ottoman historians), in circa 1630-1632, Hezarfen Ahmet Celebi made an intercontinental flight using artificial wings for gliding from this tower over the Bosphorus to the slopes of the Asian side, nearly six kilometres away. The sultan feared the power of this feat and exiled Hezarfen to Algeria. 

The tower had been used for centuries as a fire lookout before it eventually burned down itself. Rebuilt in 1967, it is now a cafe, restaurant and tourist attraction. 

After heading back to Old Istanbul over the Unkapani Bridge, I enjoyed a walk along the Golden Horn harbour to the neighborhood of Eminönü. Famous for its fish restaurants, I ordered a traditional bonito fried fish sandwich from one of the little boats rocking against the boardwalk. Each time the boat rocked towards the tables, a sandwich was passed from cook to waiter. It was very difficult to watch for too long and I wandered along eating my fish on the go. 

Istanbul at night is just as spectacular. Wandering alone was uncomfortable in the intense sales pitching atmosphere of men everywhere you walked. They certainly prey on your politeness and in the end rudeness prevails. Such a shame to tarnish the beauty and history of this magical place. It made for an early night, but more adventures await on the Bosphorus Strait and the Black Sea tomorrow...