With Athens, Greece as my "final" Eurpean adventure destination, I was eager to take in one of the 6,000 islands that make up such an integral part of its tourism. Researching possibilities I came across Hydra, with a description written just for me!
"The uniqueness of Hydra lies to the combination of the cosmopolitan life with its natural environment and the rich tradition.
Perfect for those keen on walking and exploring nature; given its mild climate, walking is a joy all year round.
With diverse degrees of difficulty, the paths presented here should satisfy even the most discriminate adventurer. You can stroll the paths easily and at your own pace.
All you need to do is to follow the wooden signs that will lead you to breathtaking destinations.
You will notice wild flowers, like the rare 'spentzes' or cyclamen and poppies. You can see pine, cypress and olive trees. Many birds also live here, including partridges, quails, or migrate birds. There are also many rabbits, cats, wild goats even reptiles and amphibians that have found a home in Hydra. Explore the path.
Enjoy your walk. Embrace your journey."
A picturesque Greek island in the Sarconic Gulf only 2 hours from the Athens port of Piraeus with no cars and lots of hiking trails! Simply perfect!
With the strike safely over I ventured to Piraeus on Friday afternoon to secure tickets on Hellenic Seaways before making my hotel booking. Set for a Saturday departure, I was free to enjoy Athens for another 24 hours.
After visiting Central Market with its bloody aproned butchers and the Archeological Museum with its vast treasures I was ready for my island getaway.
Boarding the Flying Cat, a catamaran with airline seating, I watched the sun sink into the mostly calm blue waters. The sky quickly darkened and only shadows could be seen through the splattered windows. As we approached the Hydra harbor, most of the passengers lined up at the exit, myself included. Two German men stood behind me and seeing my backpack patch of Santiago asked if I had indeed walked. Chatting about my Camino adventures seemed fortuitous as I was coming here to wander my "last" kilometers in my six month long "camino". When one asked me what I had learned, I answered quickly, "To be grateful. To live simply.". They wished me happy hiking and I wished them a happy journey. Although it is a small island with just the one town, I did not see them again.
The harbor and port of Hydra was filled with outdoor restaurants and cafes. Only a few people were enjoying the area at this evening hour. The donkeys and men waited to carry luggage and passengers to their destinations. My own lodgings were just behind the main area and walking towards it, I was met by Yannis, the owner, who brought me to my room and explained a few of the conveniences.
I returned to the harbor area and walked both sides of its horseshoe-shaped port. Both sides are adorned with canon parapets which remain from its heyday as a major naval center. Many stores and restaurants were closed and few people were left. Deciding to procure my hiking snacks before the morning seemed like a good past time in this sleepy town and a good idea in case they would be closed on Sunday, tomorrow.
Watching the brilliant stars in the pitch black sky was a nice way to end the evening on my terrace.
In the early morning I was awakened to bells tolling and rhythmic chanting/singing over loud speakers. Reminiscent of Istanbul and the calling to prayer, I needed a few moments to recall where in fact I was. Hydra has six monasteries/nunneries and 300 churches - for 3,000 residents! The Greek Orthodox monks regularly chant Sunday mornings for three hours as I was to find out. Deciding it was a good time to get going I packed for my hike and went in search of coffee. Coffee was conveniently located at the corner of my pension and as I took it to go, the barista wished me a good walk. Having located the town map with its hiking trails, I was having much more difficulty finding the actual trails. I eventually headed toward the east where the arrows pointed to the trail for Mt. Eros, the highest peak at 666 meters. A nine kilometer hike, it felt like the one to begin with. Heading up into the terraced neighborhoods, I had to backtrack several times when steps ended at houses or prickly slopes.
Locating a trail sign towards Mandraki, I followed it up the shrubbery hillside. Gor the first couple kilometers past town I saw only a small church and an Orthodox Priest riding a donkey down.
Find new trail signs on old guard towers, I decided to head towards the lighthouse.
The Zourvas trail led to a monastery and to a road that seemed have been recently cleared by a nearby tractor
Continuing on the road I was passed a few times by men on donkeys. Some of whom wore bright orange vests. I thought they were workers of some sort and gave it no more thought until I heard the gunshots. Remembering a description of hiking in Hydra which read, "The EU edict against shooting migrating bird doesn't seem to have reached 18th century Hydra. There are fewer birds than shotgun shells littering the trails. Chat while you hike or tie a goat bell to your knapsack to make sure you aren't mistaken for a bird." I was sure I was going to be a victim of mistaken identity. Having few choices, I was wearing black hiking pants and a gray tshirt, and nothing to distinguish me from some poor fowl.
Seeing a few more men in orange and one with a shotgun above me in the hills, I tried to stand tall and walk noisily. A few more shots in quick succession careened off the sides of the cliffs and I screamed! Loudly! It was too much, the noise, the fear, the absurdity that here, on this hiking trail on a beautiful Greek island, I would die.
But as the echoes of the shots and my screams subsided, there was only silence and I stood unharmed.
Hurriedly I walked past the men still hunting in the hilltop above me. There were no more shots and I began to breath and take in the scenery once again.
I never saw the lighthouse and trail signs had not been seen again either. I decided to walk another hour before turning back, if there were no further indications of where I was or where I was going. The cliff side trail became narrow and rocky, but the views were amazing. Several times I came to gates tied shut. The first had no keep out warnings and the sign just requested it to be kept closed, so I continued through them, retying them as I passed.
Nearly reaching my time limit, I met two more hunters and their dogs on the trail Although slightly wary of the big shotgun slung over one's shoulder, I greeted them in Greek. With smiles and a hello in return, I asked if this trail would lead me back to Hydra Town. They said, I should follow the trail for about two and a half hours up and over and I'll be there. Great! I am always reluctant to backtrack!
More beautiful views and a few isolated farm houses along the way before I entered a gate with several sheep blocking my path. Knowing that I've frequently taken wrong turns and ended up wrong places, I was unsure of this path. A barking dog made me pause. Then as he bounded under a nearby fence I once again assumed death was upon me. A farmer or shepard was quickly behind calling the dog. I asked if it was okay and he said, "okay". Okay! Good, the dog called back, but still those sheep in the path. I began walking towards them and they quickly ran up ahead. I had to follow them quite a way on the narrow trail before they found ground to veer onto.
With the trail steeply heading up and getting rockier and the sun beginning to burn, I was slowly losing my mojo. I had to call upon my guardian angel to get me up that hill.
Resting for a few as I neared the top.
Once I saw the big monastery on the hill I knew I was on the right path towards Hydra Town.
A beautiful pine forest led through a couple of canyons before reaching the monastery hill and a goat farmers home.
Just as I was heading up the hill, I heard bells, whistling and shouting. The farmer had just sent his herd charging down the hill, right along my path. I waited for a bit off to the side as they found their way to the other side of the canyon.
The farmer stood his ground in the middle of my path. Again I wondered if I was on the correct route. He stood, the epitome of a Greek goat herder, beret over furrowed brow, bushy eyebrows over squinted eyes, nose protruding from the bushy mustache that covered the rest of his face. Leaning on a long staff, he watched me as I climbed up to his spot. "Yasas! Am I on the right path?" Finally a movement under the mustache, a smile, maybe? Then "Yes! American, eh? You did good hike." Whew!
Continuing my climb up and finally over to the view of Hydra Town below I finally relaxed into the hike again. I had kinda made it to Mt. Eros, definitely around it and was feeling the high of a good walk.
Since it was Sunday, I thought it better to bypass the monastery, although it would have been nice to visit Elijah's eponym.
The streets of town back towards the harbor are lined with the beautiful mansions of old sea captains, artists and musicians. One of them belongs to Leonard Cohen, who sings the opening for HBO's True Detective, "Nevermind".
I think I would buy here too!
Back in town, I enjoyed homemade ice cream from one of the "cosmopolitan" shops. A quick shower and change and I was back in the town, this time heading west to see the setting sun.
Heading down to the "beach", a concrete platform built into the rocky shoreline, I watched the sky's changing colors play in the clear waters.
Back in port, I meandered along the storefronts and waited for an authentic Greek bistro to open. Enjoying some lamb and good red wine, I had made it a good day!! Time to rest for another!
