Friday, October 16, 2015

Mediterranean Adventures

It took three buses and nearly five hours of driving to reach the east coast of Sardinia. The drive through relatively flat western Sassari into hilly Nuoro and mountainous Dorgali was fantastically varied. From sheep grazing fields and vineyards to manzanita, prickly pear cactus and low growth coastal trees. From big city apartment buildings, factories, Decathlon stores and car lots to nuraghe ruins and farm houses. The two lane road cut through it all and then ascended into mountains carved from limestone through the narrowest streets of old villages. Hairpin turns and a tunnel finally brought us to the eastern edge of Sardinia and Cala Gonone. There were several times I wish I could have asked the bus driver to stop for picture taking!










After picnicking on Sardininan bread, cheese and grapes and watching the sunset behind the mountains at the beach, I made my way to the rooftop at my hotel. The views over the harbor and south to the beaches is spectacular! This also seems to be the only place that receives WIFI. Looking up at the billions of stars, I was able to FaceTime home. Connecting and sharing is what keeps me going. Unfortunately, iPhones don't make good cameras for the stars, but the clear and brilliant view is forever in my memories. 

Early morning sunrise sent me back to the rooftop! Wow!!

Cloudy and windy, I readied myself for my days hike to Cala Luna, packing leftover picnic goodies and my handy shawl. It wasn't long before the wind died down and the sun began to blaze. Part of the walk is on a quiet road that dead ends at Cala Fuili. It was between the residential end and a doggy beach that I acquired a companion. The cute puppy looked part Great Dane, and had her own mind to wander. We ventured down to the doggy beach to see if anyone might know her, but the beach was deserted. Climbing through a closed off area we really bonded as we tried to find our way back to main road fighting our way through the shrubbery. I used hand signals to caution for the dog when cars came down the road, stopped a few more curious folks to see if they'd take her back to town, but she stayed nearby until we arrived at Cala Fuili. Many people stop here and hang out on the beach and I suppose it was my puppy friend's idea of a great time so we parted ways at the trail head. I continĂºed the next six miles through rocky terrain until I reached Cala Luna. 

The trail had lots of scrambling elements and would probably have been easier to do in hiking shoes rather than my gym sneakers, but I loved being on a real trail. And most of the time, I could hear the crashing of the waves below and behind the thick shrubs. When the view finally opened up, it was incredible. The sand so white and the water aquamarine and dark blue. I loved the high cliffs, and so do many climbers as evidenced by the loads of people carrying their gear in (by boat). Boat charters ferry people in and out of these beaches along the Orosel Gulf as many are unreachable otherwise. Many grottos and caves are also found here and diving is another popular sport. I was just happy to walk and then rest on the beautiful beach. Enjoying the waves and relative peace of the sea for just a while. My return hike was just as pretty and just as hot. Funny because those clouds sure hung around while I tried to nap on the cold beach! I checked in with the pup at Cala Fuili and she was still lying on some attentive persons blanket. I left her to it and wished her a good life. Back in Cala Galone and all cleaned up, I made my way to buy bus tickets and dinner. Tomorrow it's back on the buses to return west. Just a little while longer to enjoy Sardinia, I'm going to make the best of it!







One quick capture of the rising sun east side before my first bus. 

The return trip was relatively painless as each bus was on time and so was I. Arriving in Alghero at 3:00, I quickly changed and headed out to see if I could arrange a trip to Neptune Grotto before my departure tomorrow. Quite by chance (after a stop for gelato) I came to a boat, filled with Germans, readying for the grotto tour. As I interestingly read the information stand, one of the crew encouraged me to come aboard as they had a place left. Wearing my dress and flip flops, I was a bit concerned that I was inappropriately dressed for this adventure. He assured me it'd be fine and aboard I went. The sun was very warm, but once the wind kicked up, I was cold. Braving the elements, we reached the cave in about 30 minutes. The tour was very similar to the one I had in Slovenia, but this location was quite different having arrived by sea. In the 1950's they finally put in stairs, 654 of them, to make the cave accessible to more people. The stalactites also grow in all different directions here, making the ceiling look like coral. I had no trouble maneuvering the cave walkways, but I was surprised some of the Germans stayed behind on the boat fearing slippery conditions. The ride back was beautiful, watching the other boats head out for sunset cruises and approaching the walled city from the sea. 


Some nuraghe ruins at the top here. 









My balcony (at a different & more central B&B here in Alghero) overlooks the beach. The sunset was stunning and I took lots of pictures, but capturing this heart was my favorite!

A full day from east to west. One last night to enjoy Sardinia. Changed again for the cooler weather, I'm back at my favorite Sardinian restaurant from Day 1. This time for the seafood menu. Yum!! 


1 comment:

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